Friday, April 20, 2012
The Big Pony Collection for Women 4
In the last few posts we've introduced you to the new line of fragrances from Ralph Lauren - the Big Pony Collection for Women. We've learned about the background to the range and also the marketing behind it. What we haven't once mentioned are the ever-mysterious juice creators: the perfumers.
Big Pony 1, the 'sporty' variant, was the creation of Bruno Jovanovic at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). Check him out - an attractive Frenchman who graduated from ISIPCA ; he now has about a decade of experience under his belt.
Big Pony 2, the 'sensual' variant, is from the nose of Honorine Blanc of Firmenich. Her perfumery training took place at a school in Paris, France, but she now lives (and works) in New York. Make sure to watch this clip of Honorine describing how she finds inspiration for her creations.
We go back to IFF for the creator of the 'free-spirited' variant Big Pony 3: Laurent Le Guernec. Laurent is French, a graduate of ISIPCA, and has been creating fragrances at IFF since February 2002.
Last (but of course not least), Big Pony 4, the 'stylish' variant, is from perfumer Olivier Gillotin of Givaudan. Like the aforementioned perfumers Olivier is French, but out of the three he has the most experience with about thirteen years of perfume formulation under his belt. So, how does his fragrance compare?
4 opens with creamy, softly sweet-warm notes of amber and obscure, heightening citrus undertones. These notes are quickly subdued by floral magnolia and green aromas. The green is so strong - like broken branches and fresh, dark green milky leaves woven together. The fragrance has an oriental, creamy, musk base that retains the intense green notes and brings a slight freshness to the warm fragrance.
This fragrance has three proprietary Givaudan molecules: cassyrein, cristallon and sylkolide. Now, to confeses, way at the back of this fragrance, I get a slight whiff of bug spray - almost as if there is some citronella hiding deep within the scent layers. I do wonder if it is one of these molecules. When you test this fragrance for yourself, come back and let me know if you can smell the note, too.
Although more an autumn/winter fragrance than a spring/summer one, this one will most definitely be getting a place on my shelf.
Bravo, Olivier, bravo.
On a side note ... I'm impressed, though not at all surprised, that the Big Pony Collection for Women fragrances were developed at each of the top three fragrance houses in the world!